Raw Edge Machine Applique Tutorial
We’re planning some beautiful quilt projects using raw edge machine applique, so we wanted to make sure to give you an easy tutorial so you could make them too! We have this written tutorial, but Mindy also put together a great video series so you can follow along there, too. And though Mindy is demoing with her BERNINA 790 Pro, these steps apply to most machines with minor adjustments. Let’s do some raw edge machine applique!
To get started, let’s go over your machine settings. Attach a compatible presser foot, like the 34D, which gives great visibility and guiding lines. Pair it with a 9mm stitch plate for added stability. We like to use a Microtex size 80/20 needle to minimize thread shredding and maintain precision. Next, select your stitch type. Most machines include a blanket stitch in the quilting stitches menu, but an open zigzag or satin stitch works just as well. Adjust the stitch settings to suit your design by increasing the width for a bolder look or lengthening it for more subtle results. If your machine has a dual feed feature, activate it for added stability.
You may be tempted to start stitching, but please don’t skip this step! Before stitching your appliqué, test your settings on a scrap piece of fabric with stabilizer. Check the stitch quality and ensure the fabric lays flat. If you notice ridges or channels between stitches, adjust the tension. For lightweight, less visible stitches, try a fine thread like Aurifil 80wt. Heavier threads are perfect for creating more of an accent with your stitches. Iron a stabilizer, such as Shape Flex, onto the back of your project to prevent puckering and provide additional support.
Once your machine is set up, position your fabric and appliqué pieces carefully, aligning the edges for smooth stitching. Use the presser foot’s guiding line to keep your stitches parallel to the fabric edge. Begin stitching at a slower speed than you’re probably used to, especially around curves.
The Tutorial: How to Do Raw Edge Machine Applique
Raw edge machine applique is simply stitching fabric shapes onto a base fabric without turning under the edges. Follow the tutorial below to complete your project or you can follow along with Mindy on this video.
Materials Needed
- Applique fabric pieces
- Background fabric
- Stabilizer (fusible or tear-away)
- Sewing machine (Mindy uses a BERNINA 790 Pro)
- 34D foot or dual-feed foot
- Thread to match or contrast your applique fabric
- Scissors or rotary cutter
Instructions
- Prepare Your Fabric
- Trace your applique shapes onto fusible web, making sure that they are reversed from how you want your applique to look.
- Roughly cut (at least a quarter inch away from the lines) the fusible apart and fuse to the wrong side of the appropriate fabrics.
- Cut your applique shapes from fabric following the drawn lines on the fusible.
- Following your fusible’s instruction, attach the applique pieces to the background fabric.
- Set Up Your Machine
- We went over the finer details above, but don’t forget to attach the 34D foot (or similar dual-feed foot) to your sewing machine.
- Set your applique stitch on your machine making sure to adjust the stitch width and length.
- Put in a new needle to help prevent thread shredding!
- Place a stabilizer under your block to prevent puckering during stitching.
- Start Stitching
- Pull up your bobbin thread to keep the underside of your stitching tidy.
- Position the needle at the edge of your applique piece. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching.
- If using a machine with a laser guide, align it with the stitching path for precision.
- Follow the Shape and Troubleshooting
- Take your time and stitch slowly, especially around curves or corners, to maintain accuracy. Use your fingertips to guide the background fabric and your applique smoothly under the needle.
- If you encounter thread breakage or shredding, try changing to a new needle or fine-tuning your tension settings. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different stitches, threads, or settings to create unique effects.
- Finish and Trim
- Complete the stitching around each applique piece.
- Trim any excess stabilizer from the back of the block if needed.
Now that you’ve mastered raw edge applique, there are so many new projects you can do! And if you need a little extra help don’t hesitate to reach out to the experts at Quilting Mayhem for more tips, tricks, and beautiful applique quilt projects.
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